Part 3 - Secret Diaries of the Himalayan Kingdom - Druk Yul – Land of the Thunder Dragon Day 3

Day 3

After spending  2 whole days in Thimphu. I was able to experience the culture of Bhutan Thanks to the Red hot Chilly.

The next morning with loads of memories and good mornings breakfast we left Thimphu  via the winder Road towards the direction of Punakha, which is the former Capital of the Country and the winter capital for the religious monks. It is a 3 hour drive , I was really excited to visit the people i really wanted to see if I came to Bhutan. 







My heart was already at the Valley of Gangte – Pubikha the destination of todays trip

The road to Phunaka travels across the Dochula pass on top of which appear 108 Chortens in the mist. Chortens are sacred containers for religious offerings which symbolize Buddhist consciousness in the Himalayan countries.

In a flash, the fog vanishes and the Druk Wangyal Ihakhang temple appears out of nowhere on a nearby hill. This is constructed in honour of the holy deeds and gestures of the 4 th King.

Being a Buddhist country, not much of meat is consumed in Bhutan leaving cheese and butter being the main sources of Protein and fat. However If you are a meat lover they do stock up meat which is imported either from India or from the other neighboring countries.

To the Bhutanese, time isn’t a number on the clock. Their sense of time is governed by which part of the mountain the sun is shining upon and when the cows are hungry. As a result, they are relaxed and laid back unlike those of us who always live in crunch time. They lead a happy life without relying on modern technology. The secret to their joyous life seems rather simple.













We had been driving for 4 hours when we finally entered the 4000 meter point near the summit . The breath-taking view of the yaks fattening up on the grassy highlands greeted me. This is the second time after Tsomgo lake Sikkim that I am seeing a yak in person. The head resembles a Cow with a body covered in fur and a tail bearing the semblance of a rope.

Here they are at 4000m above sea level at the highlands of Gangtae – a strong species that can bear the cold well and plough through the snow. Yaks are considered very important in Bhutanese life because without them, the highlanders cannot survive. Without them there is no butter, cheese, milk or even yak wool. The long highland winter prohibits them from farming, so yaks are an important and appreciated livestock which provide people with many of their essential staples. These useful livestock have been a big part of the lives of the Alpine people along the Himalayas since long past.

My eyes settle on a lone villager sitting on the side of as I look out the window during the drive along the road. He seems to be indulging in his daily waiting ritual – patiently anticipating his ride to reach the nearby Punaka market to sell his agricultural surplus. There are no busses in these villages and people had to walk miles everday to make their ends meet.

If he is not lucky enough to get a ride then his day is likely wasted.

The lives of these people may seem slow and uncomfortable. However, the people I met here neither rush nor strive for richer life. I can’t claim to understand everything through my short encounter with them. But the one fact that I was able to discern from my observation is that they are living in times which have been long forgotten by us.




I said good bye to the nomadic family I met there and left the village. On the way I met young students who were on the way to their school. The happy look on their faces tempted me to strike a conversation with them. I got to know that their village was located behind the hill, opposite the mountain where the school is situated. My inquisitiveness got the better of me and I asked how long it takes for them to reach the school from their village. I was told it was 5kms which usually takes about 45 minutes to 1 hour for an adult to cover by foot.

On the way I noticed a pair of brothers out at the village water tap. They were staring at the camera for a long time. Then suddenly they make a beeline to hide. The brother in another pair of siblings decide to hurriedly run away as well. His younger sister freezing on the spot. They are the epitome of innocence, don’t you think? They keep hiding due to their shyness . We decided to walk our way through the village to our destination. Mr. Dorji has brought Doma which Bhutanese commonly chew. Tasting bitter with an overwhelming scent, it will make you feel a buzz while also warming you up. Perhaps that’s why the people in this alpine region keep chewing this all time. It is a common sight to spot people with reddened mouths while strolling around Bhutan, indicating that they ate the red pigmented Doma.

While we were continuing our journey, Mr. Dorji casually told me the shocking fact that though polyandry is prohibited by law now, until recently it was allowed in Bhutan. It’s a unique marriage system in which a set of brothers can get married to one woman to prevent financial hardships from splitting the family property. In other words, it is the best way to share their possessions.
Another interesting characteristic of Bhutanese farming which I forgot to mention is my earlier blog is that you don’t have to search for organic food. This is because the people of Bhutan don’t use any chemical fertilizers when they farm. After Fruits and Vegetables, Cheese and Butter have the biggest variety. Something at the Cheese store stimulates my curiosity.They Dry the Yak cheese and bring it from the east where the Cheese is made because transporting it takes a while. It goes the same for meat that is dried or smoked to keep it from rotting.


And here I reach the The Valley of Pubjikha..

Part 2 - Secret Diaries of the Himalayan Kingdom - Druk Yul – Land of the Thunder Dragon

Day 2

On the Second day we started off with exploring the sites of Thimphu, the Capital city of Bhutan in order to gain a deeper understanding of the life and culture of Bhutan. Our Journey began with the Visit of Memorial Chorten - a Big Stupa and one of the most Prominent religious structures in Bhutan with its Golden Spires and bells in Thimphu.

Memorial Chorten

It was build in 1974 to honor the third king of Bhutan, Jigme Dorji Wangchuck (1928–1972). Very similar to few other religions, everything here works clockwise. For example, the Prayer Wheels are turned clockwise and the people walk clockwise around the Stupa here.

Next up is the world’s largest seated Traditional Buddha which is overlooking Thimphu and a great place to see the City from above

The Main religion in Bhutan is Buddhism and what people follow here is Mahayana, which is not just Considered as Buddhism or Religion, but taken by every Bhutanese person as the guiding philosophy everyday life.

The key belief is that whatever we do in our present life will determine the course of your future and your next life. Mahayana is not just about oneself but about thinking everyone as equal This extends to even animals. There are 4 types of Buddhism widely practiced across the world - Mahayana, Theravada, Vajrayana and Zen Buddhism.

Textile Museum 

 

Students at the Art & Craft School

Next Up is the Arts and Craft school in Thimphu. Arts and Craft in Bhutan represent the exclusive spirit and identity of the Dragon Kingdom .The institute of Zorig Chusum in Thimpu is the premier institute of traditional Arts and Crafts set up by the Government of Bhutan with the object of preserving the rich culture and tradition of Bhutan and train students in all the 13 art forms. In Bhutan everyone has access to free education. Unlike India, Bhutanese students do not get summer holidays but get to enjoy winter holidays.

Thimphu Bazaar

Thimphu is also a perfect place to go shopping in Bhutan. One can buy Thangkas (scroll painting), masks, prayer wheels, Buddha figurines, Mandala paintings, yak hair bags and colorful Kira’s from here. A must-try here is the locally brewed alcohol called Ara.

After spending almost a day I learnt that Bhutan’s capital city Thimphu is the only City in the world that doesn't have a single traffic light and still the traffic is really well organized and disciplined. Pedestrians are given priority and if a motorist finds anyone standing at the pedestrian walkway waiting to cross, they stop their vehicle immediately giving right of passage to their fellow citizens. Wow! Well that is what I call civilization & development of Culture and respect.

Traffic Cop at Thimphu City

Thimphu Dzong

A quick 3 km drive took us to one of the largest and oldest Dzong in the country - the Thimphu Dzong which is also known as Tashichho Dzong. The Tashichho Dzong is a Buddhist monastery and fortress on the northern edge of the city of Thimphu in Bhutan, on the western bank of the Wang Chu. Dzongs are the main heritage of the Country and most of them were built around the 17th Century to protect the people from and prevent foreign invasions. These Dzongs are still in use and almost all the Dzongs have been divided into 2. The first half would be the Regional Administrative Office and the second half designated to be used by the Monks. The Thimphu Dzong is the summer capital for the religious monks.

Bhutanese Cuisine

Despite roaming all day, not once did we feel the tiredness, possibly because of the warm and welcoming people of Bhutan. The Bhutanese always made us feel so comfortable that there wasn't even a single minute when we felt out of the country. We got back to the room to freshen up before going for a Typical Bhutanese Dinner later that evening. The dining experience in the city is also top-notch, giving your taste buds a lot of new flavors to savor by trying out the Bhutanese Cuisine in the capital city. Try Ema Datshi with Red Rice and don’t miss out on the delicious Momos . The people here are extremely fond of cheese and butter produced from yak’s milk

The government places priority on Protecting the country's and eco System and traditions to maximize the happiness of the people. People in Bhutan wear the Traditional Dress Gho and Kira which is mandatory in Public Institutions and Schools. During National events all Bhutanese are required to wear it. Korean TV Serials and Music are gaining popularity in Bhutan these days.

It was so surprising for me when I learnt that the country has only 6 cinema halls that are scattered across Thimphu and screens with an average of 30 Bhutanese movies a year. Bhutan is also the last on on our planet to be introduced to the idiot box.Yes, the television was introduced in 1999 and then came the Internet.

No wonder the country is known for its happy people. I'm glad to have gotten to know the Happy Kingdom.

To be Continued ...

Secret Diaries of the Himalayan Kingdom - Druk Yul – Land of the Thunder Dragon

Secret Diaries of the Himalayan Kingdom - Druk Yul – Land of the Thunder Dragon

There is something magical about Bhutan – The Land of the Thunder Dragon, the simple yet mesmerizing land somehow manages to touch your soul. The salubrious climate, the breathtaking views, and the majestic monasteries may seem to be the apt way to describe the beauty of Bhutan

Thimphu Tower - Thimphu Downtown

As I was wandering for an adventurous journey which is equally filled with fun and thoughtfulness I visited Bhutan to explore Monasteries, fortresses, temples, food and their tradition with that develop a deep understanding of their culture. In combination with a proper 4 days of Adventurous trekking and 3 days of cultural interaction with Local People, Bhutan simply blew me away. What makes Bhutan Unique is that, the Strong Culture that has been carried on from Generation to Generation and people still practice the same tradition in their everyday life.

Paro - International Airport

The Mountain Paradise of Bhutan Known as the Happy Kingdom on Earth has always been a Frontier land and a treasure Box of Alpine Scenery with Pristine Landscapes and Intriguing traditional architecture & perhaps its greatest asset – “The gentle and gracious People of Bhutan”.

Do you also want to have this unforgettable experience? Yes, well, then this is for you.

Flying to Bhutan from India is quite easy. There are two direct airlines, namely, Drukair and Bhutan Airlines that operate flights from Delhi, Gaya, Bagdogra, Kolkata, Mumbai and Guwahati to Paro, Bhutan’s only international airport. Indian travelers can be offered special fares in Drukair, if the airline is contacted through email. Since we were travelling from Chennai , we booked our Flight from Chennai to Kolkata and from Kolakata to Paro. Our flight to Paro was at 8 AM IST on Sunday, So we booked the last flight on the previous night to Kolkata waited in the Airport since the International travel requires passenger to Check in 3 Hrs before the Boarding time.  With all the chaos around on Corona Virus effect the Airport Authorities were on high Alert and was flooded with people wearing Mask and looking scary even to go around within the terminal for a coffee. Tension and stress intensified whenever travellers  saw a Chinese or a Malaysian Airline Landing.

Aerial View of Thimphu Valley

Day 1 .

The west of Bhutan is Dominated by a fertile Paro Valley which sits placidly amidst the mighty mount Jhomolhari, the country’s highest peak. Paro is also the place where the Bhutan International Airport is located. Wondering how many international airport in the world are surrounded by undulating lush valley and rolling pastoral landscapes , yes we landed where the adventure began at the world’s most beautiful and most dangerous airport In Paro.

As soon as we landed our Bhutan Friend Mr.Nawang Dorji greeted us in the Traditional Bhutanese way.  We then headed off to Thimphu which is the capital city of Bhutan and on the way we visited Tamchog Lhakhang and adjoining iron Suspension bridge built by saint and engineer Thangtong gyalpo.

Archery Game being Played at Thimphu Archery Stadium

The very first day We had a chance to visit the Archery ground to see how the nation sport is being played . For Bhutanese Archery is not just a game , during the Game they Eat , they Drink , they Dance and at the same time it is a symbol for every man in Bhutan that once you play archery you have achieved your symbol of your manhood.

Traditional Brass and Wooden Handicrafts made in Bhutan

Way to Local Market

We then visited the Centenary Fruits & Vegetable Market which is located right opposite to the Weekend market , this is the place where the farmers sell their agricultural surplus.

Scene at the Local Market

The weekend market which is an Assault on the Sense , meander amongst the fluttering prayer flags ,traditional Dragon paintings and wooden handicrafts ,..Red hot chilies , dried grapes , dried cheese and what more than a freshly harvested fruits and vegetables on a breezy market preserved by Nature mother.

Sun Set view from Thimphu City

Artist making Brass Sculptures / handicrafts at Thimphu Market

It was 5 PM and the temperature was already dropping below 6 degrees ,the Windy and cold temperature reminded of the dusk which is all about to set off its curtains announcing the closure of another happy day on the valley. Foodies can acquire bottles of Wild Honey from the South of the country.

Dusk

A typical Bhutanese Restaurant 

Slowly as the sun sets off from the valley that evening we headed in search of the very own Café of Bhutan to try out the local Tea called “Suja’, Black / Milk tea with Butter and Salt…

No now don’t give that weird look..It was delicious. The people of Bhutan do not consume Coffee or sugar tea, unlike western countries, No Sugar , No Calorie ..But good Health ..

A Big ..Yes!!!!

Moon Rise view- Thimphu 

To be Continued ...